Martin Vronsky
-
Posts
2,893 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Posts posted by Martin Vronsky
-
-
Quote
In this video we compare the brand new Leica Sofort 2 instant camera against the Fujifilm Instax Mini Evo. On the surface, both of these cameras are virtually identical, however there are some difference which could persuade you one way or the other. Find out in this video which camera is the best one for you.
-
Quote
Learn how to effectively eliminate dark circles under your eyes in Photoshop.
-
Quote
Today Hasselblad finally released the long awaited 90v f/2.5 lens. Announced last year, it has taken them a while to get this through production, but the result is well worth the wait. As a short telephoto, the 90v is an excellent portrait lens and quite frankly is MUCH better than the previous 80mm f/1.9.
- 0:00 Hasselblad 90v - worth the wait?
- 0:54 New Firmware with Face Detection AF
- 3:08 Why the 90v is my favorite XCD lens and better than the 80mm f/1.9
- 5:36 Editing images with the 90v and film presets
- 7:53 Optical Design and image samples
-
Quote
Another lovely new Voigtländer lens, this time for Canon RF, and Canon have even allowed them to have electronic contacts!
This lens will /not/ work on digital SLR cameras, or Canon EOS M cameras - only Canon EOS R system cameras.
All sample pictures taken by me on a Canon EOS R5 camera. -
Sony a9 III
in Sony
QuoteMy Sony A9 III hype-free review part 1 - tech-leader or game changer?
- 00:00 - Introduction
- 01:11 - Sell your used camera gear to MPB!
- 02:19 - Sony A9 III Global Shutter benefits
- 04:57 - Sony A9 III body, design and controls
- 06:32 - Sony A9 III viewfinder
- 07:30 - Sony A9 III screen
- 08:12 - Sony A9 III cards and slots
- 09:05 - Sony A9 III ports
- 09:26 - Sony A9 III battery and grip
- 09:57 - Sony A9 III sensor and anti-dust
- 11:19 - Sony A9 III image quality settings and DR questions
- 12:53 - Sony A9 III photo quality and high ISO quality
- 14:29 - Sony A9 III RAW Composite NR
- 15:18 - Sony A9 III rolling shutter for still photos
- 16:24 - Sony A9 III fast shutter speeds and limitations
- 17:32 - Sony A9 III flash sync up to 1/80000
- 20:11 - Sony A9 III burst shooting at 120fps
- 21:50 - Sony A9 III speed boost
- 22:46 - Sony A9 III pre-burst
- 23:53 - Sony A9 III playback bursts
- 26:20 - Sony A9 III autofocus
- 27:29 - Sony A9 III video features
- 31:19 - Sony A9 III verdict so far
-
Quote
This Tamron 17-50mm Lens is a Great Crossover Lens! It can be used for stills and video. I have photographed architecture, people and scenics with it and I have loved how lightweight and portable it is. Take a look at this video and see what I have to say about it and the images that I have enjoyed shooting with it!
-
Quote
In this video we take a look at some of my earlier photography and I share 3 effective techniques for improving your photography.
-
Quote
Counting down the top 10 most important lenses of our careers.
- 0:00 - Intro
- 1:18 - Lens One
- 2:41 - Lens Two
- 4:42 - Lens Three
- 5:59 - Lens Four
- 7:12 - Lens Five
- 8:22 - Giveaway
- 9:36 - Lens Six
- 12:30 - Lens Seven
- 13:31 - Lens Eight
- 17:05 - Lens Nine
- 19:03 - Lens Ten
- 22:55 - Honorable Mention
-
Quote
Video Timeline
- 0:00 Intro
- 1:13 Price vs 85mm Prime
- 1:40 In Hand Overview
- 2:44 Portrait Photography
- 4:51 Bokeh Quality
- 5:45 Sharpness & Bokeh Quality
- 6:10 Viltrox 75 vs Sony 85
- 7:09 My Thoughts
-
Quote
Peter gets asked about all the different styles of clamshell lighting he does quite regularly, and RaRa came in to the studio with an idea of recreating the lighting from an old shoot of Peter's using two gridded beauty dishes, so we filmed this tutorial showing how to get the effect.
Model: Rhiannon
Instagram: @rhiannon__lee__Lighting: 2x Gridded Beauty Dishes
Camera model: Hasselblad H6D-50c
Lens used: 100mm
Shutter-speed: 1/160
Aperture: f/8
Iso: 100Filmed on:
Sony A7c with Zeiss Batis 18mm on a DJI Ronin-CS Gimbal
Sony FX6 with Sony G Master 16mm-35mm
Sony RX vii
iPhone 14 pro max on insta 360 gimbal -
Quote
The most anticipated comparison: I compare the Nikon Zf to the reigning retro street camera king; The Fujifilm's X-T series.
---------------- Gear Used To Film ------------------
Sony A7 IV
Tamron 28-75mm f2.8
DJI Osmo Action
------ Gear used to make images -------
Nikon Zf
Nikon 40mm f2
Viltrox 85mm f1.8
Fujifilm X-T5 and X-T3 -
Quote
This Viltrox AF 20mm f2.8 FE might be one of the cheapest Full Frame lenses for Sony. But how good it actually is? See in the video.
-
Quote
With the arrival of the Sony A9 III, some speculation arising around the possibility of the Z9h has begun to appear on Nikon Rumours. In this video I contemplate from a consumer perspective, market perspective and manufacturer perspective, how possible this might be. Or Not.
- 00:00 Intro
- 00:15 Z9h rumour
- 01:43 The 3 ways we will asses this question
- 02:16 This would not be the first ‘h’
- 02:38 From Nikon’s perspective might they make a Z9h?
- 03:20 A little ‘h’ history
- 04:29 How many megapixels might a Z9h have?
- 05:58 New processor? What else?
- 08:10 Is there an appetite for global?
- 12:00 So will it be global, or is image expectations more important?
- 13:40 From a consumers perspective should we get a Z9h?
- 15:30 Z9h is niche !
- 16:00 From a market perspective do we need a Z9h?
- 19:50 What other cameras would we like to see in 2024?
-
Quote
...not to be taken /too/ seriously. Seriously. Have fun!
-
Quote
In this video you will learn one of the keys to mastering lighting!
The term "lighting pattern" is just a fancy way of describing how shadows fall on your subject. It's fundamental knowledge that all of us need to have when choosing how to light our subjects. And if you're a natural light shooter, don't think for a second that this is some fancy stuff only those flash people need to know.
To sign up for a free trial for the Academy with John Gress click here:
https://johngress.com/academy/Click here for a full list of all the gear I use https://shop.howl.me/JohnGress
To better illustrate this concept, let's imagine a clock, with the camera positioned at 6, facing 12, and the model standing right in the middle. The hours around the face will represent different positions for our light sources. These sources could be a flash or they could be the sun.
Split Lighting (9 or 3 o'clock): Split lighting involves setting a single light at either 9 or 3 o'clock, resulting in one side of the subject's head being illuminated. While this technique can create interesting contrast, it may not always be the most flattering choice. In fact, I must admit that I personally find this lighting pattern to be less than ideal. To showcase my reservations about it, I had to delve deep into my archive to find an example. Surprisingly, the first image I came upon happened to be a test frame.
Backlight or Rim Lighting (12 o'clock): When the light is behind your subject at 12 o'clock, it can result in beautiful rim lighting. I love to pose my subjects in profile with a black foam board between them and a large octabox. If the light source is a lot larger than the card, you will probably get a catch light on their eye. But if you don't get one automatically, there is a little trick that you can use. First, have the subject stand in profile facing your left, then have them turn their head slightly towards the light. Then if you shift to your left, you can probably capture a perfect silhouette with light on their eyelids. Of course, you can have them face right and turn slightly left as you wiggle over to your right.
Butterfly Lighting (6 o'clock): Butterfly lighting results when you place a light source slightly above and in front of your model at 6 o'clock. The resulting shadow under their nose and their nostrils are supposed to resemble a butterfly, but let's be real—not everyone sees it. If you place the light too high, you could end up with dark shadows covering their eyes, or there won’t be any catch lights, which are a reflection of the light in their eyes. If this happens, just turn on the modeling light and lower the modifier until you see a reflection in their pupils.
Clamshell Lighting: Clamshell lighting is achieved by combining butterfly lighting with a reflector or a light placed underneath as fill light. From a side view, it resembles the shape of an open clamshell. This technique creates flattering light for a lot of people because the fill source fills in wrinkles.
Loop Lighting (5 or 7 o'clock): Loop lighting involves positioning the main light just above eye level at approximately 5 or 7 o'clock. This creates subtle shadows on one side of the subject's nose and is generally pleasing for most people. If their nose bends to one side, you might get better results with the light on the side their nose bends towards.Rembrandt Lighting (4 or 8 o'clock): Rembrandt lighting is named after the Dutch painter Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn and is achieved by placing the light closer to 4 or 8 o'clock. The light source should be far enough away to allow the shadow from the subject's nose to extend towards the shadow from their cheekbone. This technique also results in an upside-down triangle-shaped light patch under the eye opposite the main light. While not suitable for all faces, Rembrandt lighting offers a captivating and artistic look that I personally love, and I use it frequently alongside loop lighting.
Short Lighting: Short lighting involves positioning the light source similarly to Rembrandt lighting, but you also turn the subject towards the light. This technique can have a slimming effect on the subject because most of their face will be in shadow.
Broad Lighting: Broad lighting is similar to short lighting, but the subject is slightly turned away from the light source. In this position, both eyes should receive light, and the face will likely appear broader by virtue of the fact that more of it will be illuminated.
Cross Lighting: To achieve cross lighting, place the main light source at 4-5 o'clock and an edge light at 10-11 o'clock. This technique creates a dramatic image with a three-dimensional look.
Chapters
- 00:00 - Introduction
- 01:36 - Split Lighting
- 02:21 - Back Light or Rim Lighting
- 03:14 - Butterfly Lighting
- 03:54 - Clamshell lighting
- 04:19 - Loop Lighting
- 04:52 - Rembrandt Lighting
- 05:46 - Short Lighting
- 06:03 - Broad Lighting
- 06:47 - Cross Lighting
- 07:06 - The Takeaway
-
Quote
Photographer Dustin Abbott shares a series overview/review of the new Sirui Sniper series of F1.2 autofocusing lenses for Sony E, Fuji X (reviewed here) and Nikon Z. Individual reviews of the 23mm, 33mm, and 56mm F1.2 lenses will follow.
- 0:00 - Intro and Concept
- 1:19 - Fantom Wallets
- 2:00 - Common Design Elements
- 8:56 - Autofocus
- 10:25 - Video
- 12:00 - Image Quality
- 14:20 - Conclusion and Pricing
-
Sony a9 III
in Sony
-
Quote
Woodland Photography is really difficult, but remembering this simple advice will really help you start to take better woodland images.
-
Quote
In this video, I share how to capture wide-angle landscape photography, telephoto details, and even some aerial imagery. All were photographed at one of the most incredible locations I have ever seen in Ireland.
-
-
Quote
I’ve been using the Fujifilm XF16-80mm for over a year now and taken it with me all over the world. It’s probably the lens that I get asked most about so here are my thoughts on how it performs as a landscape and travel lens.
- 0:00 Introduction
- 1:27 Focal Length
- 3:36 Build Quality
- 5:22 Image Quality
- 14:56 Conclusion
-
Quote
In this video, join me in the wild New Zealand landscape, as I go on a hiking trip with friends to capture sunrise in the mountains. I'll share with you some post processing techniques and tips when it comes to creating compositions with depth.
-
Quote
Hey everyone! After my last editing tutorial, how to use the Lightroom Tone and RGB curves was so highly requested by you! In today's video I'm sharing with you everything you need to know about the Tone Curve in Lightroom to use it to edit your photos. I share a tutorial on how to use both the tone curve AND RGB colour curve. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments and I hope you enjoy the tutorial!
-
Quote
Our second look at a lens from the new manufacturer Brightin Star, we're switching gears from the wide angle 11mm to the wide aperture 35mm f/0.95. Does this lens fall prey to the same softness issues many ultra wide aperture lenses do? Let's find out!
Panasonic Lumix DC-S5 II / DC-S5 IIX
in Panasonic / Lumix
Posted